Paving Sealing: What It Costs and Whether It Is Worth It

by Aug 5, 2026Informative Articles0 comments

Sealing paving bricks is worth the money in specific places and not worth it everywhere. No source we hold says all paving should be sealed. Sealing stays conditional throughout the bulletins of ICPI, the trade body whose guidance Bosun and SmartStone distribute in South Africa, and both local manufacturers recommend a protector, then hand the decision to a specialist and decline responsibility for it.

What a Sealer Actually Does

A sealer keeps water, stains, oil and dirt out of the brick surface, or in ICPI’s wording, “Sealers reduce the intrusion of water, stains, oils and dirt into the paver surfaces.” It pays for itself in a few places: driveways, other areas subject to stains, and anywhere oil drippings are not wanted. For a home that makes the driveway the strongest case. Joints benefit too, because a sealer reduces the potential for weeds and insects. Reduce, not prevent. Longer paving life carries the same hedge, from Bosun: sealants, “under some circumstances”, can prolong the life of the installation.

Aged red-brown brick paving laid in herringbone under cover, the paver faces dulled and blotched with dark discolouration and small dry debris scattered across the surface

The Sealer Families, and What Each Is For

Start with the carrier, not the chemistry: it decides how deep the product gets. Solvent based sealers “carry the dissolved solids as deep as the solvent will penetrate into the concrete paver”. Water based sealer particles “cannot penetrate as deeply”.

Penetrating: Silanes and Siloxanes

These “penetrate concrete well” and become a polymer, “curing as a film in the capillaries of the concrete”. The film forms inside the pore structure, not on top, so the barrier still lets the concrete “breathe” or release water vapour, which is why ICPI credits this family with deterring efflorescence at the surface. The finish is flat, and they do not resist petroleum stains without additives made for it.

Film-Forming: Acrylics, Urethanes and Water Based Epoxies

Acrylics enhance colour, create a gloss and resist stains well. Two limits arrive in the same breath from ICPI: they “should not be used on high abrasion areas such as industrial pavements or floors”, and they “generally last for a few years” before re-coating. Urethanes give a high gloss and better chemical resistance. Water based epoxies are the only family ICPI says “generally do not change the skid resistance of the surface”.

Family Finish Colour effect Can be re-coated Ease of removal Price
Silane Flat Initially, then diminishes Yes Moderate Higher
Siloxane Flat Initially, then diminishes Yes Difficult Higher
Acrylic Gloss Enhances Yes Difficult Moderate
Urethane Gloss Enhances No Very difficult Higher
Water based epoxy Semi-gloss Enhances Yes Moderate Higher

Cells from ICPI Tech Spec 5, Table 1, headed by ICPI’s instruction: confirm properties with the supplier.

The Case Against Sealing Paving Bricks

Every page on this subject is written by somebody selling a tin. Here is what they leave out, starting with the look: “most sealers change the appearance of the paver surface by darkening it”.

A Sealer That Cannot Breathe Traps What Is Behind It

Four conditions can leave you with a white surface, in a list from ICPI: pavers “may draw efflorescence to the surface, or the sealer or liquid stabilizer may whiten”. Three of the four concern the surface and the ground. The fourth is the product itself: “The sealer is not breathable, i.e., does not allow moisture to move through to the surface of the paver and evaporate.” Sealer laid over a poorly draining base, over saturated joint sand, or too thick “can become cloudy”, and then “must be removed or re-dissolved”.

Over-Applied Sealer Can Cure Slippery

Put too much on and the surface can cure slippery. The instruction from ICPI is plain: “Be careful not to over apply the sealers such that the surface becomes slippery when cured.” No quantity is attached; the question goes to the supplier.

South African customers get the same warning from Bosun: “It must be expected that sealants may have an effect on the colour of the paving, its slip/skid resistance and may require on-going maintenance during the life of the paving.” That is as far as anybody local will go. South Africa has no slip-resistance standard for paving, no local manufacturer publishes a figure, and we found no test data for sealed paving anywhere.

It Is a Standing Obligation, Not a One-Off Purchase

Budget for doing it again. Nobody will pin down how often: “Sealers normally require reapplication after a period of wear and weather. The period of reapplication will depend on the use, climate, and quality of the sealer.” Only one interval comes from ICPI anywhere: clear acrylic sealers “generally last for a few years” before re-coating.

THE PART THAT DECIDES IT
Urethane sealers “cannot be rejuvenated simply by re-coating”, and ICPI’s Table 1 marks them the one family that cannot be re-coated at all. Getting one off runs to methylene chloride or sand blasting, which ICPI says “is best handled by professionals”. That is guidance about urethane sealers, not every coating. The families still differ enormously in how easily you can change your mind.

What Sealing Involves, and Why Preparation Decides It

Preparation is where home attempts come apart. “All dirt, oil stains and efflorescence must be removed prior to sealing. The cleaned surface must be completely dry prior to applying most sealers. Allow at least 24 hours without moisture or surface dampness before application.” The same requirement appears in Bosun’s guidance.

The application is unglamorous. Sealer stands in the chamfers and soaks at least 20 mm into the joint sand. Excess gets pushed off with a rubber squeegee, which stops it dragging joint sand out. One coat is usual, then keep traffic off until dry, typically 24 hours.

Pale buff pavers laid in herringbone, the chamfered edge of every unit and the filled joints between them clearly visible, the surface matt and dry with the far side in deep shade

Why Nobody Publishes a Sealing Price

We went looking for a credible published South African price per square metre and did not find one. What is findable is lead-generation content: the same figures repeated across near-identical domains with no method and no distinction between sealer families. We will not reprint a number we cannot stand behind.

What is sourced is the ranking in the table above: acrylic is the only family ICPI marks moderately priced, the other four all higher. Beyond the tin, cost turns on area, access, and how much cleaning the surface needs first.

Where Sealing Sits in What We Do

Pretoria Paving has worked across Pretoria and Centurion since 2017, and we sell sealing as the last step of paving restoration rather than on its own. That service deep cleans, recolours and seals paving already down: CHRYSO Deco Net breaks down cement laitance, then two coats of CHRYSO ColourSeal, then a clear top coat of CHRYSO FiniSol Brut. The restoration carries a 2-year installation guarantee and an expected life of about 5 years, depending on traffic and exposure.

Having spent a post arguing about films, it would be dishonest not to say this: CHRYSO’s own datasheet describes FiniSol Brut as a film-forming sealer. It is water based, dries clear, and cites published standards for abrasion and for accelerated ageing. We do not strip paint and we do not remove sealers.

Sealing is a decision about a surface that already exists. One driveway of ours is 208 m² of Sabrix stock clamp pavers in Murrayfield, Pretoria East. The brick range and finished work sit in the gallery.

Pale grey concrete brick pavers laid in a 45 degree herringbone across a residential driveway, joints filled and the surface an even colour up to the garage doors

Frequently Asked Questions

Should I seal my paving at all?
Not automatically. The cases that justify it come from ICPI: driveways and other areas subject to stains, and anywhere oil drippings are not wanted. Sound paving in a quiet corner is a weaker case.
How often does sealed paving have to be redone?
There is no general figure, and ICPI refuses to give one: the interval “will depend on the use, climate, and quality of the sealer”. The one exception is clear acrylic sealers, which “generally last for a few years” before re-coating. Where a maker publishes an interval, it applies to that one product, not to sealers as a class.
Does sealing make paving slippery?
It can. The warning from ICPI is about over-application: do not apply so much that the surface cures slippery. South African customers are told by Bosun to expect an effect on slip and skid resistance. Nobody can give you a tested number: South Africa has no slip-resistance standard for paving.
What is the best paving sealer?
It depends what you are buying it for. Penetrating silanes and siloxanes leave a flat finish and breathe, but do not stop petroleum stains without additives. Acrylics give gloss and stain resistance at moderate cost, and need re-coating soonest. The advice from ICPI is to confirm with the supplier.
Can a sealer be taken off if I do not like it?
That depends on the family. In ICPI’s table, removal is moderate for silanes and water based epoxies, difficult for siloxanes and acrylics, very difficult for urethanes. It is not work we do.

If the honest answer is “in some places, for stated reasons”, the next step is somebody standing on the surface. Request a quotation and we will assess it. Pretoria Paving holds 4.9★ on Google.